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| Rabbit's - Keeping them healthy |
 Providing a healthy diet and hygienic conditions is the key to keeping a healthy rabbit. But there are a few potential problems to be aware of.
Rabbit’s teeth grow through out their life and if they do, then it can prevent them from feeding and can be extremely painful for them. |
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| Gerbil's |
 Gerbil care requires time and attention, despite the fact that smaller pets are often easier to care for than larger ones.
Gerbils make great pets. Inquisitive and lively, they rarely bite. However, before you own a gerbil you need to understand what’s involved in gerbil care, so you can keep it in good health. Gerbil care involves housing, diet, health matters, exercise, entertainment, and making your gerbil familiar with you. |
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| Hamster's |
 Hamster care involves getting your hamster used to handling. (Hamsters are nocturnal, so don’t expect them to be active playmates during the day.) An important aspect of hamster care is choosing the right housing. This means finding a cage that is easy to take apart, easy to clean, well ventilated and secure.
Also, we all know hamsters store food in their pouches, but hamster care means recognising when permanently stuffed cheeks are caused by impacted food. Always seek the advice of a vet in this situation. |
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| Guinea Pig's |
 Guinea pig care raises some specific issues. For example, outdoor guinea pig care means ensuring they’re kept in weatherproof and predator-proof housing, away from loud noises and direct sunlight. Guinea pigs lack the enzyme that makes vitamin C, so it's important to keep them fed with fruits and leafy vegetables such as spinach, as well as hay. Also, don’t keep guinea pigs in the same housing as rabbits or other animals as they may be bullied.
Guinea pig care involves exercise, feeding and handling. Since these pets have quite a long life span, guinea pig care is a long-term responsibility. |
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| Bearded Dragons |
 Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, meaning that they eat both animal and plant matter. Any and all food item that Bearded Dragons should be no bigger than the space between their eyes. If the food items are bigger than the space between their eyes it can cause implications and /or hind Leg paralysis. Sub-adult to adult Beardies only need to eat prey once a day along with fresh greens. Once of age they can be fed, locusts, cockroaches, mealworms. All these can be given as treats where as the main diet for the Beardies are crickets and greens. The insects should be dusted once a day with a calcium/vitamin D 3 powder before being fed to your Beardies and the greens sprayed with water thus keeping it fresher longer and your Beardie hydrated.
NEVER FEED YOUR BEARDIE WILD INSECTS AS THEY MAY CONTAIN PARASITES AND MAY HAVE BEEN EXPOSED TO POISONS THAT COULD KILL YOUR BEARDIE. |
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| Chameleons |
 Most chameleon species are fairly solitary and intolerant of other individuals being housed with them. Thus ONE ADULT animal per cage is the general rule. Allowing your chameleon to come out for a wander, under supervision, every now and then is a good idea and helps to keep them fit.
Chameleons can either be kept in purpose build enclosures or normal vivariums, the height needs to 20 inches + for adults. If one of the glass door vivs are used then it is a good Idea to replace one of the doors with mesh paneling as chameleons require a lot of ventilation. Double glass doors found in typical glass vivariums will allow the air to become stagnant and provide and opportunity for fungus and bacteria to grow which in turn will effect the health of your chameleon. Live plants provide good hiding places and add to the beauty and humidity of the enclosure.
ONLY USE NON-TOXIC PLANTS SUCH AS POTHOS, HIBISCUS, UMBRELLA PLANTS OR FICUS BENJAMANI are a few. If you are unsure then please use plastic plants which are easily cleaned. Mist the plants twice daily allowing humidity and also letting your chameleon drink the droplets from the leaves. Feed daily with insects again dusted with calcium and vitamin D3 powder. |
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| Corn Snake |
 Corn snakes are generally known as one of the best snakes to have as a pet. They have a beautiful pleasant nature and easy to handle and very loving, however you must respect your snake and always handle with great care.
Hatchlings can be housed in small vivariums, as large ones are likely to make a young corn snake very nervous and less willing to feed voluntarily. Plastic tanks with removable mesh style lids are ideal for such snakes, but should be changed into a larger tank, or preferably, a vivarium with front facing sliding glass doors, after approx 1 year. Older corn snakes will generally enjoy vivariums measuring 3-5 feet in length, allowing them to stretch. Snakes are cold blooded reptiles and can not as such control their body heat, they maintain their temperature by moving between warmer and cooler areas of their tank. A heat mat at one end of the tank will gently warm one area while the other end remains cooler and suitable for their water bowl. Corn snakes sometimes like to lie in their water to cool off.
Corn snakes will feed on rodents of a proportional size throughout their life. DO NOT offer your snake live food as this is cruel and unnecessary and can lead to your snake getting injures, unless you are trying to get a non feeding hatchling to eat a live pinkie. Only feed your snake a rodent which is not wider that 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 the wider part (girth) of the snake. |
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